Probably the best under stairs storage ever!

Why not have a look at how a commissioned oak under stairs storage solution may look.

This bespoke under stairs storage solution was commissioned and within 3 weeks it was installed. You'll notice all the grain matches. And we have maximised the cloak room to take as many coats as possible. Including the installation of a pull coat rail. The shoe storage has been fitted behind an opening door, behind which is six shoe storage drawers. Plus we have pull out units for those hard to reach places too. It's probably to best under stairs storage solution I've seen.

The ultimate under eves storage solution ever!

Here I have fitted what I think is one of the best solutions to age old problem of storage in the attic, and how to make it both practical and beautiful. This customer designed something spectacular in my mind. Of course I had the easy bit. Just to make it paint and then come and install it.

This particular design gives access to a corridor that has been hidden from view. By pulling out the left unit, one is able to walk behind and enter the long corridor of storage that was of particular interest to the client. And by only having a pull out rail on the right behind a door, this provided enough room to slip past, once it was fully extended. These extendable clothes rails I make and they can take more then 80kg I could have off it myself.

All is well that ends well. Our NHS has done it again. What a wonderful job. It was almost a pleasure to hurt myself. Thanks to the team at Romford Hospital and their A&E department.

What every carpenter and joiner needs to learn the hard way.

Why do accident happen?

What every carpenter and joiner needs to know about avoiding accidents.

How did this accident happen?

What tips would you offer to help others worried about a similar fate?

  1st)  I would try to realise the truth about working in an environment where accidents can happen in an instant.

  2nd)  I would try to figure out, if what I'm about to do, can be done in a less strained safer way.

  3rd)  I would consider if I'm rushing this at all.

  4th)  Next I would figure out a way to remove my hands and use a clamp instead!

ps How did this happen anyway?  Well I was holding a small piece of wood on a bench and placed the saw pointing down with the teeth of the blade facing inwards. The piece was so tiny and yet I persisted in trying to saw it, and because of impatience and backache and a desire to hurry the whole procedure, instead of sitting up and giving myself and chance to rest and try again or make it safe, I instead just went right ahead and quickly just pushed the saw, but the piece of wood, was to easy to cut, but by this time I was committed and leaning over thus was needing to correct myself a little before the saw had finished its manoeuvre. This resulted in just a little touch from the teeth onto my flesh! The rest they say was history.

How would a tradesmen 

with a bad back and little cash.

Make and install a DIY Alcove Unit 

in ten easy steps?

I was always told "if you want to know the easiest way to do something, just ask the laziest person you know to plan it for you!"

Well I think there is something in that statement.

 TOP TEN EASY STEPS TO FIT A DIY ALCOVE UNIT 

1. Yes you guessed it PLANNING. But where to start. So looking at this as a carpenter and joiner I will write this as though I was talking to another tradesmen. So forgive me if I use some terms you are unfamiliar with. But please just msg me and I'll clarify anything you want.

• First I have to decide if I'm going to be living in the property.
• Next is my plan to increase the sale price of the property.
• Do I need to make the alcove unit in keeping with its surroundings.
• Is it going to be a painted finish or a wooden finish.
• Do I want it to look DIY or professional. (what's the difference?)
• Do I want to feel good about this, something to show off.
• Is there any practical needs for this unit? (hide wires, sockets, vents, pipes skirting).
• Will I need to make matching units?
• What materials do I have available near me? (drift wood, B&Q, saw mill, glazers).
• What facilities do I have, I'll probably plan to use the front room for this project like most of us. Which means I need to consider noise, dust, paint fumes, mess and inconvenience.

     2. The drawing and measurements: The drawing of the area needs all the measurements. Here is the drawing of the area in question, and my sketch of how the unit and shelves will look:

      3. How are you going to put all this together? Good question. This is probably why we visit these sites. We want to know how. Almost like an assembly instruction book! Well in broad strokes we are:

• going to make the front piece and put a return on it.
• we are going to make the doors out of the front piece.
• we are going to make the carcass that holds and internal shelf. 
• we are then making the floating shelves and unit top.
• we are cutting the holes for the hinges.
• we are fitting the supports for the doors/hinges.
• we are fitting the facade/front piece with its doors and return already fitted to the front of the carcass.

     4. Next is the cutting list: So all this considered I've decided to use MDF and paint it. I have also decided to get B&Q to deliver all the pieces of MDF cut to my specifications. e.g. If you have an alcove 997mm across with a fire breast 300mm deep with the unit to come out into the room 125mm past the face of the fire breast and I've chosen a height of 800mm to the top of the unit. Then my first piece of MDF is 18mm thick and 1002mm across and 750mm high. This is my front. When this arrives I will cut out the doors, being careful to keep the pieces I cut out, because in fact these are going to be my doors.

Like so:

Now of course no one would just order one piece of MDF at a time. So here is the rest of the cutting list as a joiner who is being lazy would do it..I will explain how these all fit together later. All 18mm thick MDF unless specified otherwise.

• front panel return. (based on the left alcove being fitted out). 750mm *150mm
• floor and top to the base unit. 902mm*325mm so two of these.
• both sides of the base unit. 700mm*325mm so two of these.
• the back to the base unit. 736mm*902mm *6mm
• the shelf inside. 842mm*250mm (this can be a piece of real wood avoids sagging)
• the internal supports for the doors. 700mm*50mm*18mm two of these.

And now the discussion will focus on the shelving on top of the unit and the floating shelves above the unit. You'll notice above that I decided to have a 50mm thick top to the unit. I think I'll have that same thickness for the floating shelves above too. Here's the cutting list for 3 floating shelves :

• the floating shelf top and bottom 1020mm*275mm*12mm six of these.
• the unit top 1040mm*475mm*12mm two of these.
• the strips that hold the tops and bottoms together 50mm*18mm*8m these strips also give the shelves and unit top its smooth paintable finish.

     5. The beginning of putting everything together: So cut the doors out of the facade/front piece using a circular saw. This has to be the battery saw, because the battery circular saw does not have a riving knife at the back of the blade. This enables you to plunge the blade straight into the wood from above, but this needs to be right the first time. ( to save you from having to buy more MDF).

I think I will put a short video of this in the link below for everyone to see how this done. There are other methods one can use. I will get to these soon especially if there is interest in me showing how to complete this project from anyone.

Kind regards Mark

The typical customer for under stairs storage:
Whom is the most likely candidate for commissioning under stairs storage? And what is likely to satisfy such a customer? In my experience of 13 years supplying fitted joinery furniture and receiving many enquiries with detailed requirements. I would say the addition of little ones into a new family home is number 1. Typical uses of the under stairs storage phenomena include an adults area, such as ironing board; vacuum cleaner; clothes rail, and over flow from the kitchen, and also an area for shoes of all house occupiers and an area for toys/back packs. However the balance was always tipped by one or more new additions, thus prompting the phone call. Typical examples that accommodate such a variety of uses are as follows:

Is having floating shelves a plus when renting?

What you need to know about floating shelves if you are thinking of trying to improve your rented property. Are they strong enough for any type of tenant? Do having floating shelves make your property more attractive or desirable for tenants? Good questions. Floating shelves can be made real tough and real strong. What is the worst thing that could be happen to your shelves once they have been installed? We all know the answer this one. They could sag right? No not these shelves, these shelves are almost unsagable if that is a word. The reason for this is the installation process. We use re bar or threaded rod to ensure they will not bend, and the fixings are made into the wall, whether the wall is made from brick/plaster board/breeze block or concrete. So once we know they are strong and will not sag, next is will they look great! The answer to this is all about design, decor, and use. I would say if you need storage then floating shelves give a beautiful finish whilst at the same time offering provision for lights and future change of colour.